An HVAC manifold gauge is needed in order to charge your system to the proper operating pressures, and this is not a screw driver.  It requires some specific knowledge in order to know how to work it properly, and also the specific requirements of the air conditioning unit that you are working on.  And then you have to factor in other things like what other components have been added into the system, the size and length copper tubing is being used, and a number of other factors that will tell the experienced air conditioning professional what the correct pressures should be for any given installation.  You can pick up one of these for as little as $50 or more but once again it is not something that even the most seasoned DIY handyman can use without some specific knowledge.

Last but not least is the welding of the copper tubing.  Welding is more of an art than a science.  All of the training in the world will never substitute for practical experience.  Welding requires knowledge of the proper size of tubing to use for the operating pressure of the system, a welding torch, solder rated for the copper tubing, and leak testing methods.  Copper tubing is used because of its pliability and it unique properties when it comes to creating welds.  Sweating copper tubing is an important aspect of the welding process in order to get the material to create the proper seal.

If you can get past all of these requirements and you feel that you have what it takes to tackle your own job, or even to become an air conditioning professional, then I wish the best of luck.  My only advise is to tackle each job like it is for your own home and avoid taking shortcuts that will result in a poor installation and an even worst reputation down the line.

Carrier AC systems using Puron

It has been almost a year to the day since we replaced our 2.5 ton unit that services the down stairs living space in our home, and now the upstairs unit has taken its last breath so it is time to replace it.  Both units were the original TRANE systems that were ‘state-of-the-art’ back in the 1970s, so we definitely got more than the average lifespan out of them.  We attribute that not just to the quality of the units, but just as much to the regular maintenance of the overall systems.

The new unit installed is a Carrier Model 24ABC6 which is a 2 ton units with a 14.5 SEER rating that matches the 2.5 ton Carrier Carrier 24ABB servicing the ground floor.  We live in a 1,5 story home so the three bedrooms, game room, and full bathroom upstairs is about half the square footage of the main floor.  It makes good sense especially when living below the Mason-Dixon line to zone the house as much as possible to provide cooling where it is needed without throwing away money by cooling areas that are mostly unused.  When the house is mostly empty from 7am to 5pm during the weekdays, we use the ‘schedule’ feature on our Honeywell FocusPro TH6000 Series programmable thermostat to set the temperature to about 85 degrees during those hours.  The only time it will kick in is if we are having some extreme heat.  However, the same setting for the upstairs unit will have it running more often because of the nature of heat rising.  That’s when you really appreciate having a smaller unit to service the areas that are needed because the power consumption of a 2 ton units is almost 1/2 that of the 2.5 ton system.

Electric powered Heater/Blower

The house was custom built back in the mid 70′s and the original owners were very quality conscious which is evident by most of the building materials used, yet it is obvious that the upstairs air conditioner was an afterthought from the original design. The gas line for the furnace that is used  for the 2.5 ton units was not extended to the attic to service the 2 ton unit and to try and retro fit a gas line to that area would be costly and somewhat dangerous.  As a result, the heating portion of the original Trane system as well as the new Carrier system we installed is powered by electricity.  Not the optimal solution by a long shot, but given our set of circumstances it is the best solution for us.

Lastly, since we had to tear apart the old unit and everything that was connected to it, we felt that this would be the ideal time to replace the ducts.  We decided to go with the Thermaflex product with fiberglass insulation with an R-6.0 rating which is a step up from the standard R-4.2 that is used in most new construction.  The higher energy rating means moe insulation and less energy loss through the ducts in that steamy attic.

Flex Duct Installation

Here is what a properly installed duct job looks like when it is completed.  Here we see liberal use of support straps to prevent the ducts from making contact with any surfaces to minimize energy loss.

Poorly installed flex duct

Here is another picture found on the web of a poorly installed duct job.  There is a serious kink in the line which obstructs air flow and the duct is actually touching the roof at one point which will transfer heat into the duct by contact and further degree the cooling capability.  I shudder whenever I look at it!

All in all we are very pleased with the job we did and the overall system performance.  The one thing that you can’t control when buying a new air conditioner is the noise level.  Some will run loud and some will run quiet…it’s a crap shoot.  We got lucky with this one.  I can’t even hear when it kicks in!

The problem comes in when you are dealing with central air conditioners. It doesn’t matter whether it is a split air conditioner or a package air conditioner. The reason for this is that they are typically not sold to the general public. It requires a licensed air conditioning professional to install a new air conditioning unit and to charge the system with R-22 Freon or the newer R-410A Puron, and it is not a one man job.  You can expect to see two or three people involved in the installation process.  In some areas an inspection is required after the installation is completed to insure that the job meet the local building code requirements.  All of this makes the process of shopping for a deal a lot more difficult because now you are not just shopping for a product, you are shopping for a product/service package deal.

I am just like you, I don’t want to pay for something and find out a week later that the Jones’ down the street got the same thing I did for half of the price. It would make me feel like I was taken advantage of. My first recommendation is to make sure that you are comparing apples to apples. Have to ever heard the saying “An astronaut doesn’t want to fly to the moon in a rocket ship that was built by the lowest bidder”? The make and model of the air conditioner may be the same, but the materials and skills used to install the unit may be entirely different, and that could mean the difference in having a unit that will last you for 7 years versus a unit that will last you for 25 years.

Here are some tips to help you feel good about the cost of the INVESTMENT you are about to make in you air conditioning unit:

• Nothing is better than ‘word or mouth’ references from satisfied customers.  Create a short-list of proposed installers and start the quoting process.
• If you don’t have that to work with, then the next best thing is to decide on the BRAND of air conditioner that you want to have installed, then visit the local distributor to see if they can recommend a handful of installers.
• Lastly, if you run across any homes that have air conditioners installed the you really like, then find out who the contractor was for the home and they can most likely tell you who installed the air conditioner for that home.

Once you feel that you have a handful of quality installers identified, then find out if they can quote you separately for the air conditioner, materials, and labor.  If you can get a breakdown then you can begin to compare apples to apples and effectively shop for the best prices.

Is your air conditioner a central unit, or a window unit, or a portable unit? This will let me know the complexity of the system and potential points of failure.

Circuit Breaker Cabinet

When you turn the switch on, does anything happen at all?

• NO:  Check the Circuit Breaker to see if the system is getting any power.  It that doesn’t fix it, then I’ll be focusing on electrical issues as opposed to mechanical issues.

• Yes:  Most times this means that the unit is blowing, but not cooling.

Is the Thermostat turned all the way down?

• NO:  Sometimes (especially at the beginning of the season) thermostats are still set for winter heating temperatures and just need to be adjusted.
• Yes: Now I’ll be focusing on mechanical issues with the compressor and refrigerant levels.

There are a whole bunch of other scenarios, but this covers the vast majority of the situations that I encounter.  At this point, there is not much left that a typical homeowner can do other than to call out an air conditioning professional.

I’ve had people call and say “My air conditioner is not cooling…can you come out and fill it up with coolant?”  Now I know of a lot of ‘professionals’ in the business that would just say “Yeah, I’ll take care of that this afternoon” then show up and squirt some coolant in and take their fee, but what is really happening is that they are throwing a quick fit at a bigger problem.

Air conditioners should never lose coolant.  It is a closed system.  If the coolant level is low, it is because there is a leak in the system and that is the real problem that should be addressed by a professional.  Also, the fact that an air conditioner is not cooling as expected is not always the result of the coolant level being low, and adding more coolant to the system could damage it.

The dirty little secret in the air conditioning business is that most ‘professionals’ are good at installing new systems (because that’s where the money is), but very few have enough knowledge to diagnose and repair an existing system.  When looking for someone to do air conditioning repair, your best bet is to find them through references from satisfied customers rather than the Yellow Pages.

• Clear away any growth and debris that has collected around the outside unit so that air flow is not obstructed;
• Trickle your hose over the coils on the outside unit to wash off dirt and pollen to improve cooling efficiency;
• Replace your air filters to increase air flow within your home;
• Turn on your air conditioner now before you need it to make sure it is working properly before the hot weather gets here.

These few simple tips that should be performed every spring will help to save you a lot of potential sweat in the summer and keep your home air conditioners running at top efficiency.

Due to the fact that the bulk of the unit hangs out of your window and is exposed to the elements year round, window air conditioners have a greater tendency of breaking down when you need them cooling the most.  Now, being the air conditioner guy that I am, you would expect me to tell you to call out your local AC repairman because it is usually an easy fix.  However, with labor prices going up and up, and the price of window air conditioners coming down (about $300-$400 for a descent air conditioning unit) the right move may be to scrap the old junker and order up a new one, especially if your existing unit is outside of any manufacturer warranty period.

If you run the numbers and decide that buying a new unit is the thing to do, then here is a way to cut your costs even further.  DO NOT THROW YOUR OLD UNIT IN THE TRASH.  You need to take it down to your local scrap metal place and cash it in for around $50 worth of Copper Tubing that is inside of the unit.  You will get the most money form the scrap yard if you remove the copper from the unit yourself, otherwise they will factor their labor into the the overall value and reduce your take considerably. Another thing that I would advise is to call around to find out what they are paying for copper before hauling it down there and compare that to the price of copper on the open market.

Most scrap metal places will pay you cash on the spot.  Now you just cut $50 off he cost of your new unit.  Either that or you can just pocket the found money and not tell your spouse that I told you about it (-;

I have not owned or worked on any Haier products before, so I did some quick research on them and found that they are an appliance manufacturer, not a manufacturer that specializes in air conditioning.  Needless to say, I don’t expect this thing to last for 20 years under heavy usage, but if I can get 10 years out of it and it works as it is supposed to, then I’ll consider it well worth the cost.

The reason that I even considered purchasing a portable air conditioner to begin with is the fact that we are empty nesters and there is just no reason to run the big central unit to cool off the entire house as much as we used to when the kids where here all of the time.  We still have it turned on so that the heat and humidity don’t ruin our stuff, be we can set it to something higher than a comfortable living temperature for the whole house, and now we can use the portable air conditioning for the bedroom so we can sleep comfortably.  If this works out, then we’ll be looking at a couple more units for the den and kitchen.

This particular model comes with separate air intake and air exhast duct ports, and a window adapter.  It can run in 3 modes: cooling, heating, and dehumidifying.  There is an LCD indicator that let you know when the condensation tank becomes full.  There are 3 an speed: low, medium and high.  There is a timer function that goes up to 24 hours that will turn the unit off automatically.  I’m not sure if and when I would ever use that, but it’s one of those “nice to know it’s there” features.  Heat pump included.  Temperature control.  Remote control included, for all of us lazy bastards that can’t get up out of the lazy boy unless it’s to get a frozen pizza or something like that.  It uses R-22 coolant which is not a good thing, but I haven’t seen an portable units that are cost effective that are using Puron yet.  The air filter easily snaps out from in front of the evaporator air intake in the rear.

That’s it.  As I get to know this guy a little better I’ll keep y’all posted.  Wish me luck!

Case in point.  I’m out working on the lawn yesterday and one of my neighbors was out and we started chatting.  Being the air conditioner guy for the neighborhood, the conversations always tend to turn in that direction, so we were discussing our electricity bills and his was more than DOUBLE what mine was for about the same square footage.  Now, you just can not attribute all of your energy consumption issues to air conditioning, but I was interested in learning why he was experiencing such a disparity with his bill and if this is something that occured year round.

We compared our elecricity bills and his only showed the spike that was causing concern in the summer months even though he was running higher that me for the rest of the year also.  We then looked around his place and there were some very obvious problems with very cheap fixes.

• Insulation around the doors and windows were worn out.  You could feel the cool air flowing freely from around the closed doors and windows from the outside.  This can be remedied for less than $5 per door and window.
• The AC filter in the return duct looked like a giant dust ball.  He claims that he replaces the filter quarterly, but I doubt it.  Even if he did, quarterly is not enough in my opinion.  I replace mine monthly to insure that the air is flowing freely.  As a matter of fact, I wouldn’t be surprised if he is experiencing some freezing in his line because the AC unit is having to work overtime to compensate for the lack of air flow.  A simple $2 per month will save on a costly air conditioner service call if the line freezes over.
• Looking at the compressor on the side of the house, I see grass growing up into the coils on the bottom, hedge limbs poking into the coils on the side, and pine needles covering the casing on top.  He (and apparently a lot of home owners) don’t understand that the function of these coils is to channel the heat out of the home.  The fan blow air over the coils to cool them down and dispurse the heat.  That’s why when the unit is running and you put you hand over the top you feel hot air.  When the coils are obstructed, the air can not pass over them to get cool which means you are not efficiently pumping the heat out of your home.  Keep the coils clear and unobstructed.  In addition when you air conditioner is NOT RUNNING, take your garden hose and with low water pressure rinse off the coils of accumulated dirts and debris.  This wont cost you anything and will make a world of difference with your electricty bill.

1. 2010 is the magic date when Freon begins to phase out. No new equipment will be manufactured using freon (R-22) coolant. Once the network news turns this into their hot topic, then you’ll be behind the curve as everyone will be jumping on board and quality installers will be in demand.
2. If something happens with your job or other circumstances arise that require you to move, it will be much easier to sell a house already configured with PURON air conditioning. It will not add to the value of your home, but in a buyers market it is a strong incentive to choose one property over another.
3. Some (not all) New Home Air Conditioners will qualify for a tax credit of 30% of the total cost (including installation) up to $1,500 in 2009 and 2010. This is what we will focus on in this post.

In order to qualify for the tax credit, you must purchase and install either a SPLIT SYSTEM with a SEER rating of 16 or higher and an EER rating of 13 or higher, or a PACKAGE SYSTEM with a SEER rating of 14 or higher and an EER rating of 12 or higher. You don’t have to be replacing an older unit to qualify, but if you are you will most likely have to replace your heater too if it acts as the air handler for your home air conditioners. To verify if you are eligible for the tax credit, you will need the MANUFACTURERS CERTIFICATION STATEMENT for the equipment you plan to purchase. This is available through your contractor, or the equipment manufacturers website.

What is SEER and EER?
SEER is an acronym for SEASONAL ENERGY EFFICIENCY RATIO and it measures how efficiently home air conditioners will operate over an entire season. The calculation compares the cooling capacity in BTUs versus the energy in Kws that is consumed over the same time. This is just an FYI, because this calculation is done by the manufacturers and is clearly marked on the unit.

EER or ENERY EFFICIENCY RATIO is pretty much the same thing, but this time it is measured with a constant outside temperature. The number derived is BTU hours per watt and this number is also provided by the manufacturer.

In both cases, the higher the number, the more efficient the equipment is rated. As of January 2006, all home air conditioners sold in the US must have a SEER rating of at least 13.

SPLIT SYSTEM vs PACKAGE SYSTEM
A split system has THREE COMPONENTS, the outdoor cabinet with he condenser and compressor, an indoor cabinet with the evaporator coil, and an air handler that pushes the cool air through the ducts which is usually incorporated into the heater unit. With a split system, air is recirculated within the home.

A package system has all of these components located in one cabinet which is located outside of the home. With a package system, new air is circulated into the home from outside and return ducts are sent outside.

3:00pm – We just barely made it!  Any longer without the air running and we would have started cooking up here.  The water and Gatorade supplies are about gone.  Now we’re all looking forward to some cold beer after the job is done.  What’s left is conecting all of the ductwork and this can be done while the air is blowing cold into the attic.  The first part of this stage is fitting the junction box.  This is a pre-fabricated cube constructed of insulation with one face connected to the output of the air conditioner, and up to five branches coming off of it (in our case we only have three.  The first thing we’re going to do it measure and cut holes for the three duct branches.  We do this first beause it’s easier to do before the junction box is mounted to the air conditioner, and it will allow the air to flow freely after it is mounted.  Now we measure and cut a square out of the face of the junction box that will fit to the air conditioner.  We fit it in place and use a liberal amount of silver tape (the installers best friend).  Now we connect the duct branches to the holes we cut in the other three sides in pretty much the same fashion.

5:00pm – The cold air is now running throughout the house and the thermostat is slowly starting to inch downward.  We still have a few things left to do, like connecting the exhaust pipes for the heater and clean up inside and out, but overall we’re saying ‘mission accomplished’ and we’re sitting down for a few well deserved cold beers…ringht under the air conditioning vent (-;

Previous Page